GUEST AUTHOR and NITEO GUIDE Brian Overcast puts his photography and writing skills to work through an insightful and enjoyable blog. This month he featured the charming small town of Patzcuaro. If you’ve been on a Niteo Tour to Colonial Mexico, it’s likely you’ve had the pleasure of visiting Patzcuaro and this article will bring back great memories! If not, maybe this insider article will inspire you to visit.
Patzcuaro: A Step Back in Time
Article and photos by Brian Overcast (shared with permission)
All photos © Brian Overcast
On more than one occasion, I have encountered strangers during my travels who, upon finding out that I live in the state of Michoacan, have commented “I visited there once and fell in love with Patzcuaro.”
There is something magical about this colonial village an hour from Morelia. Indeed, it was one of the first Pueblos Mágicos in Mexico. Founded by the Purepecha in 1324 as a ceremonial center, it became the capital of Michoacan under Vasco de Quiroga in 1539. Throughout the ensuing years, it has managed to maintain an Old World charm that appeals to visitors from Mexico as well as foreigners. Victoria Ryan, who runs the Hotel Casa Encantada, put it this way: “Patzcuaro is alive and vibrant. It’s a place where people feel they can get away from commercialism and live a purer life.”
The epicenter of Patzcuaro is the statue of Vasco de Quiroga in the center of the plaza that bears his name, although it is more commonly referred to as the Plaza Grande. I arrive here on Sunday midday and find it bustling with activity. In a corner of the square, a group of tourists observe the Old Man’s Dance (Danza de los Viejitos), a humorous take on aging performed by men with wooden masks and tap dance huaraches.
The plaza is surrounded by restaurants, hotels and artisan craft shops. One of the legacies of Vasco de Quiroga was establishing a trade in each little town of central Michoacan. Patzcuaro is known for its colorful textiles. Twenty minutes away is Santa Clara del Cobre which specializes in hammered copper. Another nearby village, Capula, is known for its clay crafts, including the unique catrinas which abound during the Day of the Dead festivities.
As I near the northwest corner of the plaza, I notice crowds of people surrounding a cart under the arches. After a bit of maneuvering, I realize it is the famous Pacanda ice cream shop with flavors ranging from their original pasta (yes, pasta!) to elote (corn!) to more traditional flavors like cherry. Many Morelianos claim you haven’t been to Patzcuaro if you don’t have some ice cream.
Yet I feel a stronger pull for some good coffee, which used to be difficult to find outside of Morelia. Now there are several wonderful coffee shops, but I still prefer Lilian’s Coffee. As I sit there, time slips away unnoticed. It starts to rain, clearing the plaza of people. Day trippers decide to return home. Church bells toll in the distance. Serenity once again descends on Patzcuaro.
Love Mexico or know someone who does?
You can share Brian’s article and subscribe to Mexico Life for free here. It will come straight to your inbox!
Travel to Patzcuaro!
You can also experience magical Patzcuaro for yourself! Join the next Mexico Tour in February 2025! It’s open to anyone and booking now. Register and view the full itinerary here.